GET QUOTE HERE>>>>>>> Online QUOTE Forms:
Door Quote Form
Molding/Drawer Boxes/Veneer etc. Form

Print Out Fax Form:
(Or copy/paste and send as attachment)
Door Quote Form
Molding/Drawer Boxes/Veneer etc. Form
Cabinet Door Form Instructions
Molding/Drawer Box Form Instructions

Hi, Dave,

 As promised, I’m sending you photos of the cabinet I just finished building.

 The upper half is made with slatwall and, if you can’t tell from the photos, the two front panels slide from left to right.  They’re staggered in the last picture.

 The door worked out fantastic.  I was a little nervous about fit because I’ve not done anything like this before and had to build a lot of the frame before I could confirm it would all work out.

 Nevertheless, it did.  I expect to get lots of complements on the door.

 Thanks for all your help and patience in making this happen.

Ron

Dear Dave,

Reply 6: Any recommendations for a veneer vendor... 
Hank replied 6 months, 3 weeks ago
I've used Tape-Ease for years with no regrets. I used another one and when the name pops into my feeble memory, I'll edit this post. I HATE to run counter to Darth, but I've always used contact cement with zero problems. Good ventilation is a must, however. I used the Joe stuff - I think it's called Heat-Lock and it worked, but had to buy a half gallon minimum and the remainder went bad after ...

Reply 7: Any recommendations for a veneer vendor... 
CraigJ replied 6 months, 3 weeks ago
CADman, I've had good luck using Tape-Ease. The iron on method is fairly easy and Pete Mazz has an excellent sticky on it.

Reply 8: Any recommendations for a veneer vendor... 
Sylvan replied 6 months, 3 weeks ago I used Tape-Ease also for my latest build. I'm happy with the experience.

Their stuff looks pretty good. I think you may be a little confused on the pricing. A 4x8 sheet of Red Oak is $1.39 per Sq foot. That comes up to about $44.
Tape Ease, www.tapeease.com is a little cheaper. The charged me $37 for an 8x4 sheet. This has the grain going the short way across the sheet. It worked out better for wrapping cabinets so I only have one seam. In any case, I think standard 4x8 is the same price.
John

http://kenjoh.xyz/plan/wood-veneer-questions.html teak veneer because it has a unique tendency to go through times of very high-demand. there are pictures of each teak veneer Peel stick wood veneer sheets - tape-ease: wood veneer, Peel and stick wood veneer sheets info@tapeease.com call: 1 888 443 3461 2nd line: 1 920 863 3571.

Chicago Duplex-Down Rehab

I ordered our hallway hutch face frames from Tape-Ease in Wisconsin and the cabinet boxes from another source.  I could have just glued and clamped the face frames on, but I didn't think that wouldn't be sturdy enough.  I didn't want to put any nail holes in the front of the frame either.  At least a year ago, I came across an inexpensive solution for drilling pocket holes call the 'Kreg Jig'. It allows you to drill pocket holes in the adjacent piece.

Dave,

First let me say that I am very pleased with the doors and drawer fronts that I recently received.  They look great and the dimensions were exact.  I will surely order from Tape Ease again, and recommend to others.

Click to enlarge.
(before)

Click to enlarge.
(before)

*Click to enlarge*
(before)

(after)

Click to enlarge.
(before)

Click to enlarge.

Click to enlarge.

Dear Dave,
It seems like months rather than weeks since I received the kitchen cabinet doors from TAPE-EASE. I was rather uneasy dealing with a web-site company, but the doors are beautifully crafted. And of course your patience with me was un-waveringly professional.

  Click to enlarge

Dear Tape-Ease,
I just wanted to say thank you for all of your help and information in the purchase and installation of the veneer that we used in our kitchen. It made a huge difference to have your helpful advice over the phone.

Also, thanks for the great product. It’s amazing how good it looks. People who have seen our kitchen don’t even realize that it’s veneer (that ended up saving us thousands of dollars and making our new kitchen possible).

Thanks,
Leah Anton                                            Click to Enlarge

Thanks again for making my kitchen beautiful and a terrific price.

Thanks !!

Bill Gehbauer  

Jim Rollins                                                                                        Apr 3, 2001
Shalimar, FL  32579
TO: Tape-Ease

Enclosed are the pictures you requested. The re-facing turned out better than I anticipated. However the pictures leave a lot to be desired…no, the cabinets are not two-tone. That was caused by a reflection.

The re-facing part was easy and the laminate cutter really saved a lot of time. I stained the the 2x8 iron-on sheets before cutting into strips. I was also careful to scrub the old surface with lacquer thinner before re-facing. The iron-on stuck very well with the iron set on “cotton” but I moved slowly. I also used a rubber roller immediately behind the iron. I was lucky that the old surface was largely in good shape and only had two small delaminating (repaired).

The 10 mil laminate was applied with contact cement to the cabinet end-panels and other large areas. The thickness matched the iron-on perfectly. I used the gel type contact cement because the bare wood absorbs the thinner type. I was surprised this went well but I admit I did some dry runs in the tight spots. Working under the bar section was a real challenge but I got three pieces to mate exactly the first time. This was my first time using contact cement and I found it was easy but tricky. One technique that helped was  using scrap laminate as a safety shield between the two layers and sliding it out as I rolled it down. Zero disasters!

Trimming of laminate was done primarily with a small cheap razor knife like you use for wall paper trimming but I changed blades frequently to prevent shredding of the wood.

Early American stain was rubbed onto the bare laminate wood before cutting. The finish coat was two coats of polyurethane with light sanding between coats. Except for the doors, varnishing was done in-place. If I was doing it over, I would either use a satin clear coat vs semi-gloss or just sand, steel wool and wax a single coat. 

To get the doors straight, I saved and marked all the old doors and even made a drawing of every cabinet. My fear was that I would drill holes in the wrong spot or put hinges on the wrong side. At work, I found more than one horror story about this! After varnishing the doors, I used the old doors as a drill pattern for the new doors. The old hardware was used but cleaned up. Hardware was mounted before replacing doors. Everything went back exactly as it came out according to the keyed drawing. To mount the doors, I clamped a 2 inch strip of wood across the bottom of the cabinet rail and rested the doors on it. I knew the spacing from my drawing and all doors overlapped the cabinet ½ inch. At first, I used ½ inch masking tape as a guide but soon found it unnecessary. Then I carefully spaced the doors and drilled the hinge holes while holding the doors in place. Got one crooked door but remounting was easy.

The only thing I should have had was a good solid table for cutting the large sheets of laminate. I had to do that on the floor with a razor and ruler…very tough on the knees and back.

Stats: 24 unfinished 318 style doors, white birch (panel:SR-20;edge:E-109), 10 matching drawer fronts; 6 sheets white birch iron-on (used 3.5); 2 sheets 10 mil 4x8 sheets (used 1.5); one special order valence, white birch, unfinished. Project cost: $1540.00 (including$$99 slitter cutter and $15 edge cutter plus approximately $100 shipping (Florida) and $40 stain, varnish, brushes, etc. Time: weekends and some afternoons, approximately 3 weeks.