Veneer Specs & Options
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INSTRUCTIONS TO LEARN MORE!!!
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With our products,
your Cabinet Refacing project will be a breeze and turn out
like a new set of cabinets. We can supply you with
Cabinet Doors, Veneers, Moldings, Hinges and more!
free advise on doing your kitchen. Please review our
web-site and if you have any questions feel free to e-mail or call us.
With our system, you use thin veneer for the cabinet boxes with no need for saws or mess, our veneer is real
wood that cuts with a scissors or razor knife. We also offer 1/8"
veneer end panels cut to your sizes, and
can be contact cemented on.
Your outside corners of your cabinets will look real, not with a piece if scribe trim that
looks out of place. Others also use plywood and nail through the face,
have you ever seen new cabinets with nails in the face frames???
Look through our
Moldings & Choose scribe moldings, Crowns
& much more
also offered in Pre-Finished.
Many more moldings offered here:
Most all of these products are offered in Pre-Finished and Professionally
done with un-beatable quality!
First determine if you would like
to purchase new doors or veneer your old ones.
You will only be able to veneer flat-front doors. For a quote
on new doors, please
use one of our forms in our Cabinet Door Section. Click:
FIGURING AMOUNT OF VENEER NEEDED:
Our Peel & Stick veneer comes in 2' x 8'. Our wood backer veneer comes
in 4' x 8'.
Measure the width and height of the area and divide it by 144. This will
give you the sq. ft.
needed for each piece. Each 2' x 8' sheet has 16sq. ft
and 4 x 8' are 32 sq. ft. Figure at
least one extra sheet for waste. You can sketch out a lay-out drawing to
help you figure
out the yield per sheet for your sizes needed. For strips of veneer for
doing face frames,
simply figure how many 8' long strips you can yield from a sheet
are using standard,
exposed self-closing hinges,
the actual door size should be
1/2" larger than the opening (1/4" overlay).
HINGE BORE FOR CONCEALED HINGES:
We can have your doors pre-drilled
for concealed hinges.
We also supply Blum
brand Concealed Hinges.
Our standard program is for Compact 33 or
hinges and is a 1/2" overlay.
This means that you size your doors at 1" larger than the
openings. With our standard
program, we will drill the doors and supply you with our 1/2" hinge mounting
Width and height of your doors may be changed to
If your cabinets have a face frame, you can change the
For other brands
of hinges, frameless or inset doors, you must supply us with the
specs. You can
also purchase a drill bit and drill the doors yourself
if your doors have
different overlays and you want to fit the doors as you
install them. Click
Here. The Blum Compact 33 Hinges use a 35mm hole
NOTE: Face frame cabinets will have apprx. 2" framing
material behind the doors.
Framless cabinets have 3/4" wide up-right dividing panels behind the doors.
Inset doors are flush mounted inside the face frame openings.
FINISHING YOUR DOORS:
order Pre-Finished Doors, you may need to finish items for your project that
available in un-finished. You can order extra stain or paint but we
do not sell our clear finishes.
Good Paint Shops can also match stain to our doors.
Because veneers have a tendency to stain up darker then solid wood, when
sanding techniques are often used. Most of the time 150grit sandpaper used
on solid wood
and 220grit on veneers will give good results. This allows the stain to
penetrate more into the
solid wood then the veneer making the end result a closer match in color.
Variances to these
techniques can be tested to get color matches closer. Our un-finished doors
are sent pre-sanded
with 150grit paper before shipped.
Many Clear Finishes out there will match our
finish. A Semi-Gloss sheen finish matches our
standard finish best. Varnish,
Lacquer or Polyurethane finishes will all work. It is best to bring a
to a local paint store for advice and testing. Spraying on the finish is the
best but brushing
can be done also using Polyurethane. Small Spray Cans can
be used also but they apply the finishes
very thin and many coats would be
DOVETAIL DRAWER BOXES:
Our Dovetail Drawer Boxes are 2nd to none
in quality. We do not even offer those old Fall-Apart ones.
For new dovetail drawer boxes, the width is 1"smaller than the opening
and the height is 3/4" smaller.
Standard depth for our boxes is 21" & 18"but we can make them any size.
Drawers are usually about 4"
less than the cabinet depth. This will allow you to use easy glide
Full Extension Drawer
Measure your cabinet depth and choose the size for the drawer guides exact, or to the next smaller size.
These mount to the side of the
cabinet and blocking is required inside the cabinet to mount
guides to. This
blocking should be installed flush with the edge of the face frame and span
from the face frame to the back wall of the cabinet box. See our Cabinet
Door Section for more info.
Dave Daus from Tape-Ease has done
kitchen cabinet refacing for over 20 years.
Please review all the information on this page.
Or you can call Dave, he will make sure your job turns out right the first time!!!
STEP BY STEP:
Take all items out of
Take doors and drawers off
of cabinets and remove hardware. Determine
if you need new doors or
if your old doors can be veneered, the old doors
must be flat to be able to veneer them. Order new Doors ahead of time and
can start veneering the cabinet boxes.
Remove all wood trim from
cabinets. See our trim section for unfinished or
At this time you should
repair any loose or damaged parts. Fill in any voids
wood putty, sand smooth, then seal with a Varnish or Polyurethane.
paper-backed, wood-backed veneer or 1/8”veneer, rough up existing
surfaces with 80 grit sandpaper or sander to prep for contact cementing.
If the existing surface has a thick finish or is a sound plastic
laminate or paint, you can use Peel
& Stick veneer,
do not rough up surface for this procedure, but you must clean
wipe surface with to remove and grease or
dirt. Peel off
backing and heat
peel & stick
to placement with an hair dryer. If you use Peel & Stick
for the rails &
stiles, you must
still use paper or wood backed veneer and
contact cement for the
end panels because the peel & stick only comes in 2' widths.
Metal cabinets can also be covered. Always follow Manufacturer
instructions when using their above mentioned
- Cabinet door edges and end panels should
be done first, then do
cabinet rails and stiles. Inside rail edges and backs of doors do not
have to be done unless preferred. If your cabinets have protruding
face frames at end panels, you can use a flush-cut router bit to
trim them down. If your cabinets have rounded corners, you can
veneer the end panel, cut flush, then use a wood filler to fill in
the rounded area. Then sand down, seal and veneer over the top.
- Doors, drawers and cabinet ends should be
material. Raw wood or warn rails and stiles can be done
using iron-on, pre-glued or Wood Backed strips of veneer
from veneer sheets. The VIRUTEX Laminate slitter works great
for cutting down strips of veneer or plastic laminates, and the
VIRUTEX Miter cutter makes perfect end cuts on these
materials also. If you choose to use iron-on veneer, you must
stain & finish your veneer after it is installed. With peel & stick,
paper-backed or wood backer you may stain and finish
before installation. The tools mentioned above will not damage
pre-finished veneer when cutting your strips.
- Cut pieces oversize ahead of time so you
can do 4 or 5 doors
or drawers at a time. Leave edges hang over and trim later.
Be sure to fit all pieces prior to gluing, it also helps to make
reference marks to use to line up when contacting.
- Using contact adhesive, brush on or
roll on glue to
If you are gluing raw wood, 2 coats of glue will be
required. Any brand of contact cement we
have found to be good. We do recommend solvent-based contact and that you
follow the instructions
from the MFG on the can.
- After glue is set, approx. 12 minutes, apply
veneer to surface.
Thin wood lattes placed in-between veneer and surface will help
to line up your veneer before contacting.
- Trim veneer edges with VIRUTEX
Edge Trimmer, and End Cutter.
A utility knife works well for cutting long end grains.
Your veneered door and drawer front edges can be cut square or cut on
45deg. angle then veneered depending on your design and preferences.
When using this method, veneer faces first then
cut substrate and veneer at the same time. Some door edges
might turn out nice by just sanding and staining them.
- Lightly sand veneer edges and stain and
finish as desired.
Always make sample pieces that you can experiment with
along the way. Use color putty on cracks and file all edges of veneer,
protruding edges will cause delimitation problems...
manufacturer directions and safety instructions before using any above
GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT!!!
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