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Cabinet Refacing     Veneering Tips     Veneer Cuts      Veneer Specs & Options

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With our products, your Cabinet Refacing project will be a breeze and turn out
like a new set of cabinets. We can supply you with Cabinet Doors, Veneers, Moldings, Hinges and more!
free advise on doing your kitchen. Please review our web-site and if you have any questions feel free to e-mail or call us.

With our system, you use thin veneer for the cabinet boxes with no need for saws or mess, our veneer is real
wood that cuts with a scissors or razor knife. We also offer 1/8" veneer end panels cut to your sizes, and can be contact cemented on.
Your outside corners of your cabinets will look real, not with a piece if scribe trim that 
looks out of place. Others also use plywood and nail through the face, 
have you ever seen new cabinets with nails in the face frames???
Look through our Standard Moldings & Choose scribe moldings, Crowns & much more
also offered in Pre-Finished. Many more moldings offered here: Wood Molding.
Most all of these products are offered in Pre-Finished and Professionally done with un-beatable quality!


First determine if you would like to purchase new doors or veneer your old ones.
You will only be able to veneer flat-front doors. For a quote on new doors, please
use one of our forms in our Cabinet Door Section. Click:
Door Quote/Order Form

Our Peel & Stick veneer comes in 2' x 8'. Our wood backer veneer comes in 4' x 8'.
Measure the width and height of the area and divide it by 144. This will give you the sq. ft.
needed for each piece. Each 2' x 8' sheet has 16sq. ft and 4 x 8' are 32 sq. ft. Figure at
least one extra sheet for waste. You can sketch out a lay-out drawing to help you figure
out the yield per sheet for your sizes needed. For strips of veneer for doing face frames,
simply figure how many 8' long strips you can yield from a sheet accordingly.

f you are using standard, exposed self-closing hinges, the actual door size should be
1/2" larger than the opening (1/4" overlay). 

We can have your doors pre-drilled for concealed hinges.
We also supply Blum brand Concealed Hinges.
standard program is for Compact 33 or Bummotion concealed hinges and is a 1/2" overlay.
This means that you size your doors at 1" larger than the openings. With our standard
program, we will drill the doors and supply you with our 1/2" hinge mounting plates.

Width and height of your doors may be changed to your preference.
If your cabinets have a face frame, you can change the overlay.

For other brands of hinges, frameless or inset doors, you must supply us with the
hinge bore specs.
You can also purchase a drill bit and drill the doors yourself
if your doors have many different overlays and you want to fit the doors as you
install them.  Click Here. The Blum Compact 33 Hinges use a 35mm hole
NOTE: Face frame cabinets will have apprx. 2" framing material behind the doors.
Framless cabinets have 3/4" wide up-right dividing panels behind the doors.
Inset doors are flush mounted inside the face frame openings.

If you order Pre-Finished Doors, you may need to finish items for your project that are only
available in un-finished. You can order extra stain or paint but we do not sell our clear finishes.
Good Paint Shops can also match stain to our doors.

Because veneers have a tendency to stain up darker then solid wood, when staining,
sanding techniques are often used. Most of the time 150grit sandpaper used on solid wood
and 220grit on veneers will give good results. This allows the stain to penetrate more into the
solid wood then the veneer making the end result a closer match in color. Variances to these
techniques can be tested to get color matches closer. Our un-finished doors are sent pre-sanded
with 150grit paper before shipped.

Many Clear Finishes out there will match our finish. A Semi-Gloss sheen finish matches our
standard finish best. Varnish, Lacquer or Polyurethane finishes will all work. It is best to bring a
sample to a local paint store for advice and testing. Spraying on the finish is the best but brushing
can be done also using Polyurethane. Small Spray Cans can be used also but they apply the finishes
very thin and many coats would be needed.


Our Dovetail Drawer Boxes are 2nd to none in quality. We do not even offer those old Fall-Apart ones.
For new dovetail drawer boxes, the width is 1"smaller than the opening and the height is 3/4" smaller.
Standard depth for our boxes is 21" & 18"but we can make them any size. Drawers are usually
about 4"
less than the cabinet depth. This will allow you to use easy glide Full Extension Drawer Guides.
Measure your cabinet depth and choose the size for the drawer guides exact, or to the next smaller size.
These mount to the side of the cabinet and blocking is required inside the cabinet to mount these
guides to. This blocking should be installed flush with the edge of the face frame and span
from the face frame to the back wall of the cabinet box. See our Cabinet Door Section for more info.

Dave Daus from Tape-Ease has done kitchen cabinet refacing for over 20 years.
Please review all the information on this page.
Or you can call Dave, he will make sure your job turns out right the first time!!!



  1. Take all items out of cabinets.

  2. Take doors and drawers off of cabinets and remove hardware. Determine
    if you need new doors or if your old doors can be veneered, the old doors 
    must be flat to be able to veneer them. Order new Doors ahead of time and you 
    can start veneering the cabinet boxes.

  3. Remove all wood trim from cabinets. See our trim section for unfinished or 
    Pre-finished Moldings. Order ahead.

  4. At this time you should repair any loose or damaged parts. Fill in any voids
    wood putty, sand smooth, then seal with a Varnish or Polyurethane.

  5. For paper-backed, wood-backed veneer or 1/8”veneer, rough up existing
    surfaces with 80 grit sandpaper or sander to prep for contact cementing.

    If the existing surface has a thick finish or is a sound plastic
    laminate or paint, you can use Peel & Stick veneer,
    do not rough up surface for this procedure, but you must clean and
    wipe surface with to remove and grease or dirt. Peel off backing and heat
    peel & stick prior
    to placement with an hair dryer. If you use Peel & Stick
    for the rails & stiles, you must
    still use paper or wood backed veneer and
    contact cement for the
    end panels because the peel & stick only comes in 2' widths.
    Metal cabinets can also be covered. Always follow Manufacturer
    instructions when using their above mentioned products.                                                                                                                       
  6. Cabinet door edges and end panels should be done first, then do
    cabinet rails and stiles. Inside rail edges and backs of doors do not
    have to be done unless preferred. If your cabinets have protruding
    face frames at end panels, you can use a flush-cut router bit to
    trim them down. If your cabinets have rounded corners, you can
    veneer the end panel, cut flush, then use a wood filler to fill in
    the rounded area. Then sand down, seal and veneer over the top.                                            
  7. Doors, drawers and cabinet ends should be done using
    veneer sheet material. Raw wood or warn rails and stiles can be done
    using iron-on, pre-glued or Wood Backed strips of veneer
    from veneer sheets. The VIRUTEX Laminate slitter works great
    for cutting down strips of veneer or plastic laminates, and the
    VIRUTEX Miter cutter makes perfect end cuts on these
    materials also. If you choose to use iron-on veneer, you must
    stain & finish your veneer after it is installed. With peel & stick,
    paper-backed or wood backer you may stain and finish
    before installation. The tools mentioned above will not damage
    pre-finished veneer when cutting your strips.                                                                                                       
  8. Cut pieces oversize ahead of time so you can do 4 or 5 doors
    or drawers at a time. Leave edges hang over and trim later.
    Be sure to fit all pieces prior to gluing, it also helps to make
    reference marks to use to line up when contacting.                                                                                                         
  9. Using contact adhesive, brush on or roll on glue to both surfaces.
    If you are gluing raw wood, 2 coats of glue will be required.  Any brand of contact cement we
    have found to be good. We do recommend solvent-based contact and that you follow the instructions
    from the MFG on the can.                                                                               
  10. After glue is set, approx. 12 minutes, apply veneer to surface.
    Thin wood lattes placed in-between veneer and surface will help
    to line up your veneer before contacting.                                                                                                                           
  11. Trim veneer edges with VIRUTEX Double Edge Trimmer, and End Cutter. 
    A utility knife works well for cutting long end grains.
    Your veneered door and drawer front edges can be cut square or cut on
    deg. angle then veneered depending on your design and preferences.
    When using this method, veneer faces first then
    cut substrate and veneer at the same time. Some door edges
    might turn out nice by just sanding and staining them.                                                                                                             
  12. Lightly sand veneer edges and stain and finish as desired.
    Always make sample pieces that you can experiment with
    along the way. Use color putty on cracks and file all edges of veneer,
    protruding edges will cause delimitation problems...


*Always follow manufacturer directions and safety instructions before using any above mentioned products.

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